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      悠悠千古事是中國歷史網,主要收集和分享中國歷史人物故事、歷史名人、歷史故事等。

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      當前位置:悠悠千古事 > 野史秘聞 > 調戲歷史(五四):古代美女吃貨,慈禧一頓吃掉白銀萬兩

      調戲歷史(五四):古代美女吃貨,慈禧一頓吃掉白銀萬兩

      發布時間:2017-10-31  來源:悠悠千古事 點擊次數:

        當然,好吃倒也不全是男人專利,古時女子,但凡有機會的,也大多愿意在“吃貨”的路上奔跑一會。只是古代史家大多迂腐,大概終覺女子登不上臺面,因此文字記載倒是寥寥。可即便如此,也總有人吃出名氣,譬如大唐貴妃楊玉環就是其中出名的一位。

        有意思的是,楊玉環在“吃貨”界的名氣,卻并非史學家的炒作,而是多虧大詩人杜牧。杜牧有一首《過華清宮》,相當的出名里,其中有一句:“一騎紅塵妃子笑,無人知是荔枝來”。你看,大詩人就是厲害,一句飄逸的輕描淡寫,玉環姑娘不折不扣的吃貨本質就暴露出來了。只是,古時荔枝以嶺南最為鮮美,而當時帝都長安卻遠在千里之外。大唐的快遞業遠沒有當代發達,我們的玉環姑娘要“淘寶”吃上新鮮荔枝,估計得消費不少人力物力吧。這下,知道楊玉環為何胖了吧?吃出來的嘛!

        不過,“吃貨”界女子,肯定不只楊玉環,譬如,李清照也可稱為一位。當然,出賣她“吃貨”本質的,不是別人,而是她自己。大概是某次飯局吃高了,喝了不少酒,迷迷糊糊地在“微博”上貼了這樣一句:“常記溪亭日暮,沉醉不知歸路。興盡晚回舟,誤入藕花深處。爭渡,爭渡,驚起一灘鷗鷺”。“微博”一出,點“贊”者、“轉發”者立馬上萬,有死忠粉絲在下方留言道,好接地氣啊,女神原來也是吃貨。當然,這就是被后人傳為佳作的《如夢令》。

        只是,如果給“吃貨”的定性只在于吃,難免流于低級,高級一點啊,需得折騰點美食,拉著別人的手,一起飛奔在“吃貨”的路上。當然,如此評價,董小宛就該粉墨登場了。這董小宛字青蓮,又名宛君,單聽名字,就散發著文藝女青年的腔調。當然,董小宛也絕非什么良家閨秀,乃是當時青樓圈的最具人氣的組合“金陵八艷”成員之一。至于后來歸宿,倒也比其他姐妹好上一些,嫁予了當時的大才子冒辟疆,棲隱園林之中。

        古時的才子,大多體弱多病,當然,冒辟疆也不例外。董小宛入了冒府,自然不用以賣笑為生,閑暇之余,她倒是悉心研究起了食譜,“微博”上看到哪里有奇異的風味,就會不辭辛苦,習得制法。調出的美食,自己先嘗上一口,覺得口味上佳,再遞與夫君食用,也算補補身體。看得出來,董小宛奉行的愛情哲學:留住男人的心,先得留住男人的胃。

        當然,董小宛這位修煉出來的“吃貨”,終于讓夫君在美食上感受到了濃濃的愛意。冒辟疆就曾在《影梅庵憶語》中,不吝贊譽地稱許了夫人的手藝:“火肉久者無油,有松柏之味;風魚久者如火肉,有麋鹿之味。”你看,肉無油膩之感,魚若麋鹿之味,董小宛的手藝,怎能不讓這位枕邊之人在“吃貨”路上狠狠地邁出一大步?如果冒辟疆對愛妻的盛譽是有所偏護,那坊間的流傳,更印合了董小宛極品創作型“吃貨”的氣度:“醉蛤如桃花,醉鱘骨如白玉,油鯧如鱘魚,蝦松如龍須,烘兔酥雉如餅餌。”按現代話講,大致就是讓人吃出了初戀的味道。

        不過,若在古代美女“吃貨”里評出一位最能吃的“通吃姐”,恐怕還得是老佛爺慈禧太后。當然,慈禧究竟算不算美女,這不太好認證(每個人的審美多有不同),因為年代較近,已有照片傳世(按現代話說,就是有圖有真相)。不像那些稍遠時代的女子,只有文字描述,動輒就是閉月羞花,讓人浮想聯翩。但慈禧是個“吃貨”,卻是無疑的。

        其實,在當今坊間的許多美食店里,往往都打出這樣招牌:“老佛爺欽點的豬肚雞”“慈禧最愛吃的老豆腐”、“西太后御用的肥鍋肉”,諸如此類。看的出來,老佛爺在世人看來,早成了老字號的“吃貨”,是塊招攬生意的金字招牌。至于慈禧在“吃貨”界的業績,我們不妨從流傳下來的一份清宮日常的晚餐清單里看個究竟:菜式大約二十來道,單鴨肴就有“燕窩如字八寶鴨子”等七種,熏炙菜肴有烤鴨、燒乳豬、熏雞、煨羊腿等。看得出來,老佛爺是個不折不扣的肉食系“吃貨”,其中又以鴨子為甚。相傳,慈禧最喜清燉肥鴨,洗凈的鴨,裝入瓷罐,隔水用文火蒸上三天,開罐之時,香飄四溢。有意思的是,之于鴨的周身,慈禧最為偏愛的,又是鴨皮,每每拾筷,別處可以不食,但皮定是入口。

        當然,慈禧對于吃的考究,絕不僅限大俗的肉食。有時,也玩票一下文藝。譬如,但逢春花燦爛時,對于宮中各宗盛開的鮮花,慈禧若是興起,倒也隨采隨食。當然,也不是生吃。大概是將花瓣折下,讓太監浸在溫水里漂洗十余分鐘,然后撈起瀝凈放入竹籃。www.bjzhmgsls.com此時并不吃,待御膳房的端來新出鍋的魚片、鴨片,將原先做好的花瓣灑在上面,細細品嘗。如此,倒也色香俱全。

        若在太平盛世,慈禧如此考究,其實也未嘗不可。可清末這個時節,國事卻是一塌糊涂,國外列強的炮火打來,慈禧在宮中終于端坐不住,跑路了。可即便是跑路,慈禧這個“吃貨”排場,卻絲毫沒有消減的意思。每每逃至一處,但凡安頓好了,定要從各地調集燕窩魚翅,拼出百種佳肴,據說,日耗伙食費白銀逾二百兩。吃不完的,大概都是倒掉。

        當然,跑路總有結束的時候(比如,給外國人陪張笑臉給點賠款什么的,這事情就好商量了嘛)。在返京路上,有些地方官員為了拍迎老佛爺馬屁(平時也見不到領導的面嘛),打著給“圣駕”接風洗塵名義,多將驛館為行宮,至于沿途招待的宴席,也多以依靠慈禧的標準,有八珍、八八席、六六席等,支度數萬銀兩者比比皆是。你看,這慈禧哪里是逃難,分明是一個著名“吃貨”風騷的舌尖之旅。

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