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      詩詞游丨楚之西塞憶烽火

      發布時間:2018-07-03  來源:悠悠千古事 點擊次數:

      原標題:詩詞游丨楚之西塞憶烽火

      渡荊門送別

      李白(唐)

      渡遠荊門外,來從楚國游。

      山隨平野盡,江入大荒流。

      月下飛天鏡,云生結海樓。

      仍憐故鄉水,萬里送行舟。

      1200多年前,當20多歲的青年李白第一次離開四川外出游歷,走水路經岷江、入長江,經過三峽荊門、虎牙之間,看到“山隨平野盡,江入大荒流”的壯闊景象,萬丈豪情便在這首詩作中噴涌而出。

       

      詩詞游丨楚之西塞憶烽火

       

      圖:從江面上遠眺荊門虎牙以及中間的宜昌長江公路大橋。

      十二背

      以“三峽門戶”“川鄂咽喉”著稱的宜昌,古稱夷陵,因“水至此而夷,山至此而陵”得名,意思是而水到了這里就化險為夷,山到了這里就變成了小的丘陵。長江出三峽后,經過荊門山和虎牙山形成的天然門闕,匯入江漢平原,便形成如此景致。

      乘船出葛洲壩船閘,順流而下10公里處,長江南岸峭壁林立,崢嶸突兀,綿延十余公里,這便是唐詩中多次提到的荊門山(系)了。“群山萬壑赴荊門,生長明妃尚有村”,杜甫站在三峽西頭的夔州白帝城東望,思緒已隨著沿途的群山萬壑,飛到了三峽東口外荊門山附近的昭君村。這里是為了漢匈和平而遠嫁匈奴的明妃王昭君的故鄉,就在今天宜昌興山縣南郊的香溪河畔。

      唐朝楊炯、陳子昂、王維、李白、杜甫、白居易、韋應物,宋朝歐陽修、蘇軾、寇準、范成大、司馬光……眾多文人墨客途徑此地。歷史上這里頻繁的戰事和險峻的風景,為他們提供了絕佳的吟詠題材。

      順著宜昌市點軍區艾家鎮往下游行去,依次出現十二座山峰,這便是民間俗稱的荊門“十二碚”,又名十二背。根據清代所修《東湖縣志》的記載,十二背分別為觀音背,偃月背,將軍背,烏石背,丞相背,天鵝背等,由其形貌而得名。其中第十二背上有一天然巨石,形如彎月,向前十一背蓋去,構成一座天然拱橋,人稱“仙人橋”。遠遠望去,第十一背與第十二背矗立兩側,“仙人橋”橫于其上,其狀如門,故名荊門山,是古人乘舟進出三峽的重要地標。《東湖縣志》載:“荊門山在烏石鋪,縣南五十里,與虎牙袤迤相對,上合下空,有若門然。一名仙人橋,舟行至此,先避虎牙而南,而復避荊門而北,橫流湍急,懸若千丈,非乘風奮楫,舟莫能進。”寫出了此地的地勢險要。

      古戰場

      “扼巴蜀咽喉,為荊楚門戶”,由于特殊的地理位置和險要的地勢,荊門山成為了歷代兵家必爭之地。北魏酈道元《水經注》記載:“江水又東,歷荊門虎牙之間……此二山,楚之西塞也。”如今站在船頭,遙望南北隔江對峙的荊門虎牙二山,仿佛仍能聽見當年戰場廝殺的喧囂。

      公元前278年,秦將白起伐楚、火燒夷陵,還焚毀了楚國宗廟。唐代詩人劉禹錫曾作《松滋渡望硤中》一詩:“夢渚草長迷楚望,夷陵土黑有秦灰。”即是指此事。這也是宜昌有歷史記載的最早一次戰爭。

      自先秦至清,這里先后發生了白起燒夷陵、東漢公孫述架浮橋、三國猇亭之戰、西晉伐吳破西塞、隋朝楊素破陳軍、唐軍夜襲虎牙山、清軍大勝吳三桂等多次大型戰役。其中最為著名的當屬三國時期吳蜀猇亭之戰。公元221年,劉備為替關羽報仇,親率大軍東征孫吳,吳國派陸遜率軍應戰,雙方相拒于夷陵地區。后陸遜火燒連營七百里,大敗蜀軍,劉備敗退白帝城,不久去世。此戰正式奠定了三國鼎立的局面。據考證,猇亭之戰的發生地就在今天的猇亭虎牙山。

       

      詩詞游丨楚之西塞憶烽火

       

      圖:猇亭古戰場。

      如今,山上建有猇亭古戰場風景區。景區內林木青翠,藤蔓盤羅,仿漢古建筑鱗次櫛比。虎牙灘江邊的絕壁上,有一條1500余米古纖道,像一條巨龍橫臥在峭壁之間。這條纖道最早修建于清代康熙年間,后歷經多次續修。同治年間,為保障川鹽入鄂征收厘金以充軍資,朝廷重修纖路。在虎牙山西段山麓,至今還立有同治十二年治理虎牙灘重修纖路紀事碑。走在棧道上,追憶往昔,感受長江的恢弘波瀾。

      古纖道盡頭處有“屯兵洞”,傳說為歷代戰爭屯兵所用。洞口如門型,高約3米。洞向下彎曲延伸,越往里走越窄,漸漸聽到流水聲。洞中鐘乳叢生,洞洞相連,是隱兵屯糧的天然處所。

      跨江橋

      站在虎牙山上眺望江面,只見千帆競發,百舸爭流,江面一派繁華景象。隔著一層薄薄的霧氣,對面荊門群山若隱若現,難辨形貌。作為交通咽喉、戰略要地的三峽,在荊門虎牙之間,流經的長江干流相對較狹窄,古代不少王朝在此處修建關城,搭設浮索橋,作為御敵工事。

      公元33年,割據稱帝的公孫述為阻止劉秀漢軍入川,曾派遣田戎等人于荊門與虎牙之間架起浮橋,并在山上安營扎寨。這是有史可考的第一座“長江大橋”。兩年后,劉秀部將岑彭領兵六萬攻荊門,率舟師直沖浮橋,因風縱火,橋樓崩壞,最終打敗公孫述,斬其將任滿等人。為張揚功德,岑彭在荊門山建起楚塞樓,樓為三層六角,上書楹聯“上收蜀道三千之雄,下鎖荊襄一方之局”。歷代戰火中,原樓早已損毀不見。今天在虎牙山頭,有一座近年重建的楚塞樓,從中依稀可見當年名樓的風采。

       

      詩詞游丨楚之西塞憶烽火

       

      圖:虎牙山上重建的楚塞樓。

      公元272年,為了抵御晉師東下,吳國憑借長江天險,在江中暗置鐵錐,并在荊門、夷道等地用千尋鐵鏈橫鎖江面,成為“鐵索橋”。西晉將領王濬率領數十艘大筏沖走鐵錐,并用火炬燒融鐵鏈,攻克荊門、夷道二城,然后順江東下,直取建鄴。唐代劉禹錫在《西塞山懷古》中寫道:“王濬樓船下益州,金陵王氣黯然收。千尋鐵鎖沉江底,一片降幡出石頭。”便是指此事。

      世事變遷,如今江面上早已不見浮橋、鐵鎖橋的蹤跡。在公孫述搭浮橋近2000年后,北踞虎牙平臺,南依荊門山麓,一座大橋橫空出世,江關從此真正暢通。這便是全長1188米的宜昌長江公路大橋。這是首座完全由中國自己設計、施工、監理的特大跨徑懸索橋。大橋兩端,兩座朱紅色的橋塔高聳入云,懸起80對吊索,如龍爪攥玉,穩如泰山。夜色中,大橋華燈鮮亮,燦若虹霞。橋下的江面也被燈光映照得格外璀璨動人。也許,李白所見“月下飛天鏡,云生結海樓”的神奇畫面,也不過如此吧。

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